At Watches and Wonders 2023 in Geneva, Jaeger-LeCoultre unveiled its new products, paying tribute to a mysterious and magical number represented by the lettre φ (Phi), recognized as universal symbol of beauty.
Before talking about the numerous novelties of the Manufacture, in particular the latest Reverso, it is mandatory to introduce the Golden number. With an approximate value of 1.618, it represents the perfect harmony of proportions of an object where the ratio between the largest and smallest part is equal to that between the largest length and the whole.
Created in 1931, during the Art Deco movement, the original design of the Reverso was determined by the Golden Number. Today, the original proportions remain the anchor of the collection and the Golden Number still characterizes the design of the Reverso.
La Reverso Tribute Chronograph 2023 is a reinterpretation of the 1996 Reverso Chronograph. The latter was part of a series of six special Reversoeach representing a new expression of the great classic watchmaking complications.
From 1991, these pieces have marked the revival of mechanical watchmaking after the quartz crisis, following the 60th anniversary of the Reverso. Calibre 829, the 1996 Reverso Chronograph movement, was remarkable for two reasons: it was the first shaped chronograph movement in a rectangular case and the first integrated hand-wound chronograph to be developed from scratch in the post-quartz era.
This 2023 version displays the sobriety of the front to grey/blue sunray dial and a openwork reverse side revealing a retrograde chronograph. Applique hour markers, a railway track floating above the movement, blue chronograph hands, beveled bridges, this piece has a modern and timeless aesthetic.
La Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon pays tribute to the first wristwatch with a Rectangular whirlpool of the house. It features the emblematic complication: a flying Tourbillon housed in an ultra-thin Duoface movement.
This piece highlights the Manufacture's tourbillon expertise, hand-decorated in the Manufacture's Métiers Rares workshop. The two dials present two different aesthetics, with a second time zone and a day-night indicator on the inverted dial. The harmonious proportions of its case, faithful to the original design based on the golden ratio are as modern today as when the Reverso came off the drawing board over a century ago 90 years old.
What we often appreciate about the Reverso is its sobriety, his simplicity to be a very chic, dressed. The Reverso Tribute Small Seconds demonstrates this perfectly, offering the iconic colored dials of the Reverso collection, including a black sunray dial. The different dials are enhanced by the pink gold cases.
It pays homage to the 1930s, when Jaeger-LeCoultre was one of the only manufacturers to offer colored dials.
The manufacture of the dials is a processus very complexe : first, the base of the dial is galvanized to give a metallic luster and protect the brass from oxidation. Then, a sunburst pattern is drawn via a fine metal brush. Finally, the surface is varnished and polished to give a smooth shine (unless the dial is lacquered).
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso One Precious colours is a true tribute at the time Art deco recognizable by its clean and strong lines, and its geometrical pattern on the reverse side made in émail Grand Feu completed with bands set with diamonds giving an impression of depth and movement.
Le cadran in nacre white contrasts with the bright colors of the enamelled edges. We can see golden reminders of the case in the corners of the dial, applied numerals, or Dauphine hands.
The case of the Reverso One Precious Colours is a work of art in itself, adorned with shades of blue and black on a rose gold background, with shades of green on a white gold background. This know-how comes straight from the workshops of Métiers Rares de Jaeger-LeCoultre.
The hand-wound Calibre (846), invisible though it may be, is entirely developed and produced by Manufacture.
With the Reverso One Precious Colours, we have reaffirmed our mastery of the decorative arts and techniques of Haute Joaillerie, while revealing our ability to merge Art Deco inspiration with modernity.
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Hybris Artistica, un concentré des 180 watchmaking skills of the manufacture combined in a masterpiece of watchmaking.
Technicality the Gyrotourbillon composed of 123 components, the fastest ever made (360° rotation every 16 seconds), displays a different time zone on each dial, as well as a 24-hour indicator for the second time zone on the back.
Decorations the plates, the bridges and the two dials are decorated with dark blue lacquer handmade, creating a nice contrast with the rose gold case. The movement is also equipped with of English handmade finishes, from squelettage to give an airy aesthetic.
Designed around the innovative Gyrotourbillon, the Reverso Hybris Artistica is the pure expression of the ingenuity of our watchmakers, combined with our mastery of traditional skills.
The Reverso Secret Necklace is a combination of the iconic Reverso model and a sautoir or long necklace. This exceptional piece combines High Jewellery and Haute Horlogerie.
The cord is composed of links set with diamonds and polished onyx beads. A Reverso, also set with diamonds, hangs from the case.
When the Reverso Secret Necklace rotates on its time side, the dial appears upside down, just so that the owner can naturally read the time.
300 hours is the working time required to achieve the crimping of this exceptional jewelry watch.
Links set with diamonds and polished onyx pearls transform the Reverso into an eminently feminine necklace, while the concealed time display adds a touch of mystery and character.
Why the name Jaeger-LeCoultre?
The name Jaeger-LeCoultre is the result of the merger of two companies: the Swiss company LeCoultre & Cie, founded in 1833 by Antoine LeCoultre, and the French company Edmond Jaeger, which specialized in the manufacture of extra-flat watch movements.
What are the emblematic models of Jaeger-LeCoutre?
The Manufacture is known for its emblematic models such as the Reverso, the Atmos, the Memovox, the Master Control, the Duomètre and the Polaris.
Where is Jaeger-LeCoultre located?
The Jaeger-LeCoultre factory is located in the small town of Le Sentier, in the Vallée de Joux, in the canton of Vaud, Switzerland.
When was Jaeger-LeCoultre created?
Jaeger-LeCoultre was founded in 1833 in Le Sentier, Switzerland.
About the author
Mathieu CeliPassionate about timepieces, and everything that revolves around them for many years, my ambition is to share my watchmaking adventure, and help you to enlighten yourself on this world that seems so inaccessible, and yet, is not. Every watchmaking story is initiated by encounters, and continues with an endless curiosity, a real addiction to the very embodiment of time.
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