We are the Monday, March 27, 2023 and several watchmaking companies have, for the first day of the launch of the 2023 edition of the Watches and Wondersthe largest private watch show in the world, published many announcements. This is the case of Rolex which has just revealed all its new features for the year 2023. Expected for a while now, this year 2023 will be, for the brand with the crown, a year punctuated with major anniversaries concerning some of its emblematic models, such as the 60 years of the Cosmograph Daytona or the 70 years of the Submariner.
Rolex's watchmaking heritage reflects the history of a brand that, thanks to its pioneering spirit and relentless pursuit of excellence, has established itself as an undisputed reference in the field of luxury watchmaking. In this article, let's see if the new Rolex 2023 models announced live up to expectations, and if our Rolex predictions were right.
This year is marked by the sixtieth anniversary of the Rolex Daytona, and for the occasion the Swiss house offers us a new evolution of the iconic reference. It was in 2013, for the 50 years, that Rolex had revealed the Daytona Platinum Ice Blue (116506), very popular with collectors in recent years, as the latest important update.
To celebrate this important step in the history of the Cosmograph Daytona, Rolex presents a beautiful update of the aforementioned model, platinum dial.
For the occasion Rolex strikes a blow by embracing a brand new chronograph movement entirely designed and manufactured by the company, the 4131 calibre. It embodies some of the major innovations brought by Rolex to its movements such as a Chronergy escapement allowing to reduce energy losses. This movement is, for the first time in the Oyster Perpetual collection, visible from a transparent sapphire crystal case back and unveils a openworked oscillating weight in 18K yellow goldand the Côtes de Genève Rolex decorations on the bridges.
In terms of aesthetics, the Oyster case of the new Cosmograph Daytona has been redesigned with elegant "fluid lines of light" on the sides of the case middle, worked exclusively with 950 platinum, an alloy composed of 950% platinum. The glacier blue dial with azure counters has a Chromalight display, a luminescent material that allows high readability in the dark. Finally, the brown Cerachrom bezel The one-piece, engraved tachymeter scale is corrosion resistant, almost impossible to scratch and its color does not fade when exposed to the sun's ultraviolet rays.
Our opinion on this novelty: it was difficult to propose a significant evolution of the Cosmograph Daytona Platine model. The piece as a whole does not undergo any significant modification and remains very close to the spirit of the first edition released 10 years earlier. The surprise on the other hand is behind the watch with a first in the Oyster collection: the transparent case back allows to appreciate the new caliber 4131 and the decoration work, certainly far from a Haute Horlogerie finishing but still very pleasant to the eye.
Other new variants of the Cosmograph Daytona accompany the release of the reference 126506: Rolex Daytona 126506 and Rolex Daytona 126518LN.
The GMT-Master II is also included in the list of new Rolex 2023 models. A favorite of the Rolex announcements at Watches and Wonders 2022 because of the changes made that attracted a lot of attention, including the change in the position of the crown to make it easier for left-handed people to use, this year's novelties are more traditional.
Yellow gold is in the spotlight. This new GMT-Master II is equipped with a two-tone Cerachrom bezel (black and grey), and a new GMT-Master II typography in gold.
It is available in two variations: 18k yellow gold and yellow Rolesor.
Our opinion on this novelty: Not much surprise on the evolution of the design of the reference. The addition of a new black bezel color and the association with the Rolesor brings more diversity in the Rolex catalog and allows a nice readability.
Perhaps one of the Dress Watch the most famous, the Day-Date model receives new dials in ornamental stones with shimmering colors that "evoke the atmosphere of the Mediterranean coast".
The green aventurine dial, carnelian and turquoise are paired with versions in Everose gold, yellow gold and 18k white gold respectively.
Our opinion on this novelty: The colors of the new dials are beautiful. We can't wait to have them in hand to appreciate the play of the sun's rays on the materials.
Emblematic of the Rolex professional watch collection and the only mechanical memory chronograph in the world that allows skippers to program countdowns, the Oyster Perpetual Yacht Master II is getting a new look in 2023 with a new titanium finish.
This new Rolex Yacht-Master 42 comes to complete the range with a new case in titanium RLX, material currently used on the Oyster Perpetual Deepsea Challenge qui brings a lot of robustness and lightness to the model. Faithful to the previous references, we find a mix between matte and polished textures bringing more depth to the intense black dial and allowing the Cerachrom bezel to stand out more.
Our opinion on this novelty: The Yacht-Master model is one of the ones we like the most in the Rolex Oyster collection. We really look forward to having this piece in hand to compare the lightness against its previous edition. The bezel brings a lot of charm and character to the piece.
The Explorer collection is completed by an Explorer I model in 40 mm, offering a better readability than its predecessor, nothing like it for a watch intended to be used in extreme conditions, to go on an adventure.
As a reminder, the Explorer is a steel watch, resistant to corrosion, with satin finishes on the case. It has a Chromalight display allowing the time to be read even in conditions of increased darkness.
Our opinion on this novelty: great deception for us concerning this "new" Explorer I, which, for us, is only a meager evolution of the model, bringing very few additional details. We would have liked to see more of a new model in 36 mm for example, or with a dial more in line with the vintage model.
This new model is directly inspired by the Oyster Perpetual of 1931, and revisits the watchmaking tradition in the brand's avant-garde spirit. Its name "1908" is a tribute to the year the brand was registered in Switzerland. With a very pure, chic design, a small second at 6 o'clock and applied Arabic numerals, it is as classic as it is modern. Its bezel is fluted and domed.
We can also note the appearance of a new flat caliber, the 7140, with a power reserve of about 66 hours and a precision worthy of the greatest (-2/+2 seconds per day). Available in several iterations, pink or white gold case, black or white dial.
Our opinion on this novelty: Finally a real novelty by the brand with the crown, an elegant piece that perpetuates its watchmaking heritage. We have a great attraction for vintage watches, and we find a lot of code that reminds us of the watches of the past. This is our favorite piece of the new releases.
A much more recent model in the Oyster collection, the Sky-Dweller was unveiled to the public in 2012 with the objective of accompanying globetrotters by offering an ultra legible GMT function. For this year 2023, Rolex announces new variations with: the return of the 18K white gold on a black dial model and Oysterflex bracelet, a mint green dial variant on a grey Rolesor and a magnificent blue-green dial combination on 18K Everose gold.
These new versions embody an all-new manufacture movement, with the appearance of the 9002 caliber, to succeed the 9001 that had not been updated since the launch of the Sky-Dweller in 2012. The model now features all the latest Rolex technology such as the Chronergy escapement, Paraflex shock absorber and a new, more efficient oscillating weight.
Our opinion on this novelty: Already conquered by the combination of the chocolate dial on Everose gold, we are very excited to see the new blue-green dial under the sun.
Rolex Oyster Perpetual are famous for their simplicity and affordability, being the entry level of the brand with the crown. The old versions with colored dials have become rare and hard to find collector's items. Fortunately, Rolex has launched a new collection with colorful dials for the year 2023.
The new iterations of the Rolex Oyster Perpetual are available in 31mm, 36mm and 41mm, and feature playful and festive dials with multicolored bubbles.
The Rolex Oyster Perpetual 31mm is equipped with the 2232 movement, while the 36mm and 41mm models are powered by the 3230 caliber.
The 2232 movement offers a power reserve of approximately 55 hours, while the 3230 caliber offers a 70-hour autonomy, adapted to its larger size.
On the occasion of the presentations concerning the novelties of 2023, some models in particular will now be interrupted within the Rolex collections. Here is the list of references in question:
Rolex Cosmograph Daytona : 116500LN, 116503, 116508, 116518LN, 116509, 116519LN, 116505, 116515LN, 116506
Rolex Sky-Dweller : 326934, 326933, 326938, 326238, 326935, 326235
Rolex Cellini : 50535
Rolex Milgauss : 116400GV
No doubt that the Rolex announcements were followed by many enthusiasts, Rolex spoil us with many novelties for this year 2023. We were impatient to see the surprises that the house with the crown planned for this year full of important dates. The two new features that stand out for us are the appearance of the open case back on the Daytona model, which is a departure from the brand's habits, and we are particularly fond of the new Perpetual 1908 model. Unfortunately, the lack of risk-taking leaves us wanting more.
If only a few people had the chance to appreciate the new products at the Watches and Wonders event, we invite you to get in touch with your nearest authorized distributor to make your own opinion on the evolution of the Rolex collections.
All the news on the Rolex website:
Link to the list of official Rolex retailers in France :
Link to the list of official Rolex retailers in Switzerland :
Do not hesitate to send us your feedback on the new products on our instagram account !
When was Rolex created?
Rolex was founded in London, UK in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and his brother-in-law Alfred Davis. At the time, the company was called "Wilsdorf & Davis" and specialized in the import of Swiss watch movements and the assembly of watches. It was in 1908 that it was renamed Rolex. Today, Rolex is one of (if not the) best known and most respected watch brands in the industry.
Which Rolex watch to buy in 2023?
If you are looking for a classic and chic watch, go for the Rolex Datejust, the new dial colors appeared in 2023 should please you. If you're looking for a watch that's tough as nails, look to professional models like the Rolex Explorer, or the Rolex GMT Master, some of which are among the company's latest releases.
Where to buy a Rolex watch?
At Rolex retailers: Rolex has stores in major cities around the world, where you can buy new, authentic Rolex watches directly from the brand (or at least get on the waiting list).
Is a Rolex watch reliable?
Rolex is a Swiss luxury watch brand that is known for its precision, quality manufacturing and long tradition of watchmaking. The brand is often associated with success and excellence, although it suffers from a bad image. Rolex watches are also often considered an excellent financial investment.
About the author
Antoine LinI am a freelance developer with a passion for entrepreneurship since 2015. My interest in watches has led me to explore this fascinating world and learn more about the technical and aesthetic aspects that make them so unique. Through Watch Interest, I hope to share this passion and accompany others on their own watchmaking journey.
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